Lingthem to Temi

16^th April

A formal farewell to Lingthem:  with Sangthup

We retraced our route back to Mangan, on the way I commented to Kee that he looked a different person in his work clothes;  it was not just the clothes, in some ways his demeanour was different, although he still managed bits of that wonderful sense of humour and told me that we could keep in touch via the satellite phone in his office!!  Still more jokes about the satellite phone.

A few words from him to the officer at the checkpost – a friend or a cousin-brother – had us through there and on our way to Mangan.

The river near the checkpost

I was astonished that at one point we turned into a car park – and worked our way up several stories to come out at a road further up the hill.  I guess this is a town version of a shortcut!!

I had stated that I needed an ATM and a general store – I guess from the driver’s point of view the ATM may have been critical!  We stopped in Mangan and Kee pointed me to a couple of ATMs, some not working and one that suddenly was in maintenance mode as it was my turn to withdraw money.  I had assumed that we would drop Kee at his office, way up the hill, but he said his goodbyes there – a formal handshake and a big hug.  And my promise to accept his facebook friend request when I had internet.  We would find an ATM on the way, perhaps in Singtam through which we would pass on our way to Temi. 

Looking down at a park sculpure

We travelled a route I had previously travelled for a little way, but turned off at Rongrong to follow the Teesta Valley to Singtam.  It was hazy, and got hazier as we travelled south and decreased elevation. In places the valley is stunning and in other places there is serious work happening – excavation of sand and construction of hydro-electric dams.

Water sculptured rocks

My driver, who is cousin to Sangdrup and Norpa – real cousins, not brother-cousins – pointed out where the southernmost village of Dzongu lay, it is quite an extensive area that is occupied by the Lepcha – though they are a people, like so many Himalayan people, whose range extends well beyond political boundaries and they are present also in Nepal and southern Bhutan.

The temperature increased as our altitude decreased, to the point of discomfort, and after a while Kezang asked if I wanted AC.  You bet!!  A few minutes later and I started to feel much more comfortable.  As we approached Singtam, I reminded him about the need for an ATM, but he said there was no need to go into Singtam, it would be sweltering, but there would be an ATM at the market in Temi.  Fine. 

Just a random waterfall

We crossed the river and immediately proceeded to swichback repeatedly up an almost sheer hillside, until after a while I remarked that we were probably high enough to dispense with the AC and open the windows.  We were, but the regular roadworks and large vehicles in front of us, made closing the windows necessary from time to time.  It seemed much drier here than where we had come from.

Eventually we reached the start of the tea plantation  -  I believe the only one in Sikkim -  and wound our way further up the hill through that, with Kezang pointing out the tea factory on the way.  Eventually we arrived at the Cherry Resort – a large box-like building perched on a point on the hillside, among the tea plantations, that commanded a 270 degree panorama – or would if it were not cloudy!  Its website says

“Set amid a lush green carpet of manicured tea gardens, with 360 degree views of Mt. Kangchendzonga and the Tista River gorge nearly 8000 metres below, Cherry Resort sets a new standard for Himalayan hill resorts” 

The view from my balcony at Temi: Tea Pickers

Oxygen is not provided!

Pickers were at work in the tea gardens – only started that day -  the manager reported.

Yes, they did have my booking, and the discount they would provide for me would be provided, but the manager who took my booking would talk with me later about that….

And yes, the internet they said they had was available, but only in the lobby and it was quite poor!  Hmm.  I need to make some bookings and payments with a degree of urgency!

  

An individual tea picker

I was shown to my room and checked the sheets and towels.  One pillowcase appeared not to have been changed, and there was only one sheet.  One of the towels looked none too clean and the table was dirty.  I also asked for a water boiler / electric jug/kettle.  He said he would send housekeeping.

Once again, I am at a loss to know why these details are not attended to before guests arrive.  Housekeeping came and one girl gave the floor a perfunctory sweep and pointed out that there was a miniature cake of soap in the bathroom.  In time she brought clean sheets and pillowcases and all were changed and eventually a top sheet was added.  Imagine my surprise a couple of days later, when I was having a lazy morning, and this process was repeated – my sheets and pillowcases and towels were changed (hopefully for freshly laundered ones) – although the bed was not made up properly, the bottom sheet and pillow cases were put on and everything else left folded.

Temi also has views of Kanchenjunga

A later chat with the quietly spoken couple from Calcutta in the next room (yes, I have met quietly spoken Indian people – nice, I thought they all shouted!) revealed that they shared my thoughts about standards of cleanliness.  This place is not cheap by Indian standards, and they also expect more!  She carries with her a small kettle, which she lent me for a few minutes.  It enabled me to have a truly hot glass of coffee and to top up my thermos.

I repeated my request for the table to be cleaned, and a rather grubby cloth and a piece of newspaper were used for this purpose.

Kanchenjunga view - not as clear as at Lingthem

I went downstairs to inquire again about the means to boil water – there was a kettle but the wiring was dangerous; they would bring me boiled water -  I expressed concern that it should be properly boiled and was assured;  I hope I can trust this place more than the hotels in Lachung and Lachen.  I also inquired again about wi-fi.  The person I had spoken to when I booked said I could take the hotspot device to my room – it sort of worked, on and off, and I managed to make a hotel booking for Bagdogra but not a flight back home from Bangkok! 

I enquired about heating for the room – that is extra!  OK, I can wear my down jacket in my room and sit under the blankets; if my feet are cold I will put them on my water bottles filled with boiling water, once again!