Travelling North

Valley Cloud

8^th – 11^th April

My booked car arrives with my driver Jesraj.  My guide, Abijet will come soon.  I was waiting for the tour operator Sudan, to sort paperwork and payment but it seems we must go to the office.

My papers seem in order, apparently I am travelling with a German bloke  (I cannot travel alone, I may or not set eyes on this man).

Entrance to Kabi Goempa

On our way I note a power pole at a crazy angle, we pull up beside it to check tyre pressure at some sort of vehicle workshop, which results  in removal of wheel.  Wouldn’t a driver normally check his vehicle before coming to collect a tourist????

Finally we were on our way and soon out of Gangtok and into much more pleasant surroundings, driving through forest and the occasional village that was quite picturesque (and a few small towns). 

It had been raining gently on and off and the clouds had been low early in the morning, a gradual clearing provided some nice views of clouds in the valleys.

Rivers were a constant feature of the journey

The roads were mainly sealed to begin with, although the surface degenerated as we progressed and it got to the point where I appreciated the requirement for only larger cars, presumably with 4 wheel drive, to travel this road. 

The road followed main valleys but wound in and out of side valleys and down and up to cross rivers.  In most places precipitous cliffs dropped huge distances below and in places a route for the road had obviously been dynamited through the rock – we drove under overhangs. There were loads of waterfalls and attractive cascades and I was a little disappointed that we did not stop more often so I could photograph some waterfalls, but when we eventually got to seven sisters falls, I could see why they had not bothered.  

Driving hazards!

This big waterfall was stunning.  And so named, I was told, because it fell the full course of its height, in seven steps.  We could see only two and around the upper one was evidence of serious scouring by water action to smooth the watercourse.

Many of the bridges were one lane, some only one vehicle at a time, looking and feeling a little on the rickety side!

At Seven Sisters Falls

And then there was the evidence of mountainsides relocating themselves downhill – some landslides were big, others smaller, some impacting on the road!

Another hazard on the roads were cows, goats, chickens and dogs.  The dogs in particular seemed to think that sleeping in the

middle of the road was a good idea!  And they tended just to give that lazy cow look in response to tooting or other suggestion that they might move!

Fairly early in our journey we stopped at Kabi Goempa, located in some rather lovely forest with azaleas flanking the access path.  This was the location where, several centuries earlier, 2 indigenous tribes had sworn blood brotherhood – to live in peace for as long as the river runs and the Mount Khang-Chen-Zho-Nga remains.  

Seven Sisters Falls

This rather gory event involved putting their feet in a vessel filled with animal blood.

The area was marked with piled stones and also strewn with prayer flags and housed small shelter for miniature stupas.

As we progressed the valleys became even more stunning, the hills/mountains steeper and the rivers more beautiful.  It was difficult to capture the perspective of some of these vistas.  In many cases the valleys were almost gorges – their walls so steep, and hills/mountains rising out of them almost vertically.

Villages dotted on the hills showed little evidence of any access and Abijit confirmed this and in response to my further query said that all students have to stay as boarders away from their villages.

Stunning valleys

We reached the first checkpoint and everything seemed to be in order with my papers, even though we were still well before the actual restricted areas.  That was rather a relief, but not as much of a relief as when we finally were OK’d through the checkpoint at Tong – the actual place where the restricted area starts.

I was rather delighted to be told, at the restricted area checkpoint that plastic water bottles are not permitted in the area – that alternate safe drinking water if provided.  While clean drinking water is an issue in places such as India, I still prefer to boil water an put into my aluminum drink bottles.  

My aluminium water bottles with boiling water also double as hot water bottles in my cold and feeling vaguely damp hotel bed.

Gorgeous Orchids

At one of our many stops – some for checkpoints, some for view points, some for refreshments, I spotted a stunning orchid – I had seen several, but this one was so prolifically loaded with pink flower, it was gorgeous.

We passed a couple of hydro electric projects and I received the information that around 60% of India’s power is hydro generated.  Given the level of air pollution that exists, it is good that clean energy is on the agenda!

Rock falls

Finally, at one viewpoint, there is a hint of something high and snowy peeping through the cloud and a local chap sitting and enjoying the view showed me a panoramic view he had taken the morning before – clear blue skies and the Kanchenjunga range as far as the eye could see.  I can live in hope.  As we travelled further north, we did see a little more of the mountains, but these are still the little ones…

In places the road forded rivers and beside the road were steps and raised footpaths – presumably for the rainy season.  At one of the larger streams, which had quite a pool beside the road, people were doing their laundry and washing themselves.

Naga falls

As we climbed higher, the streams and waterfalls became cleaner, and the rivers were tinged with that blue-green of glacial meltwater.  Another significant waterfall, Naga Falls, provide us with a stopping excuse and me with a great photo opportunity.

The approach to Naga falls was signed with advice not to stop, it was a landslip area, and on the other side of the river I could see the amount of slope stabilization that had been attempted to keep the road in place.

Another rather tall and stunning waterfall did not have a name – at least that is what I was told, that might translate to name unknown.

Road stabilisation attempts

Rhododendrons started to appear – gorgeous red blooms and Abijit shared with me that the flowers are dried and used as medicine – for upset stomachs.  He also shared that they are used to make organic wine, but corrected himself the next day on this point.

A little more of the lower Himalayan peaks

Huge crevices and cracks in the mountains opposite attest to the strong forces that formed, and continue to shape, these mountains.

A refreshment stop for Jesraj left me walking to admire the view and I snapped a picture of a woman framed in her shop window, and showed her the picture.  A nearby man struck a pose, so I photographed him also.  He subsequently begged a ride with us.  He is a yak herder and horseman, with quite decent sized herds and in a month or so will move the yaks back up to higher ground for grazing.  I told him I though where he lived is beautiful, but he said the summer high pastures were even more beautiful. I will be able to judge that tomorrow.

Picturesquely framed

We arrived at the hotel in Lachen - Floret Hotels and Resorts - and I was shown to my room – any chance of one with a view? No, the hotel is packed.  OK, any chance of clean sheets and towels – the towels have dirty landmarks on them and the bed linen looks as if it has not been changed for some time.  Abijit stayed to negotiate this request and although the manager said that all had been changed that morning, it must have been room 201 changed with room 202.  The bottom sheet pulled off the bed and deposited in a heap on the floor was positively grey and Abijit agreed with me that no way had that been changed. 

And photograph me too!  The yak herder

I also requested a top sheet, but there were no more clean sheets – a scary thought.  One wonders what plans for changing beds in the morning after guest check out – perhaps floor 2 can be changed with floor 3. 

In lieu of a top sheet, I requested a clean quilt cover.  I got a different quilt cover; it showed less evidence of grime but smells unpleasantly of cigarette smoke.  I think I’d rather not go too much into exactly where this quilt cover came from. 

I also requested a heater, but that was going to cost extra and I decided that my down jacket would do nicely.  Along with my metal drink bottles filled with boiling water to try to warm up the cold-damp feeling mattress and linen.

Buildings near Lachen Lhakhang

I walked up to the monastery but all was closed, so I circumambulated the goempa and spun the prayer wheels then returned to the hotel. 

Just before dinner time (no, I don’t want to eat dinner at 8:30, I want to be thinking about sleep around that time) the power went off but there are back up lights – that is something.  An Indian gentleman I had chatted with earlier suggested that the power would probably be off all night.  I am glad I did not pay extra for a heater!

Stunning Rhododendron

The same gentleman inquired if I was planning to visit Lake Gurudongmar.  I would love to but that is definitely off limits to foreigners.  He expressed surprise since foreigners are allowed (with permits) in the restricted area, but I believe the logic is that this lake is very close to the border.  It is a shame, as it is a stunning place.  He shared that he and his wife wanted to but did not think their 7 year old daughter could cope either with the cold or with the altitude – it sits at around 5,300m. 

A firewood supply that attests to the climate!

He asked how I was coping with the cold here at Lachen – it’s about 2,700m – as I was wrapped in my down jacket at the time, I confessed to comfort – he was cold.  He had on a lightweight jacket and said he had not packed enough for him, although this wife and daughter were OK.  I was reminded of some Indian tourists I saw in Ladakh who were similarly unprepared for the cold.

Morning light on Lachen's peaks

The power went off and my friend shared the advice that when that happens, the power is likely to be off all night.  It was!  There was a back up emergency light, whether from solar or a generator I would not be sure, but my early morning they were not working.

Apparently there were some guests leaving at 5am for the long drive to Gurudongmar and of course they could not do this quietly!  My scheduled departure was 7am – no breakfast first, we would get breakfast on the way.  The reason for the early departure was given as the need to get through a checkpoint before it closed.  Given it was closed on our return, I guess this was valid.

Morning light on Lachen's peaks

There are not enough superlatives to describe the beauty of the Teesta and Chopta valleys.  The day was reasonably clear to start with and there were views of high, snowy peaks that only improved as we travelled north.  I snapped away madly with my camera just in case the clouds came in  - which they did around midday. 

The closer peaks are equally imposing, with impossibly steep sides, beautifully forested slopes (at least, at the relatively lower altitudes) the rivers cascading down rocky river beds, amazingly high waterfalls leaping from untold heights and rhododendrons in flower along with a few other things.

Yak tail used for ceremonial purposes

I identified a pale pink azalea on the banks of the road as we passed by and in places extensive growth of some rather gorgeous mauve-purple flowers I had also seen as I travelled over Dochu La in Bhutan.  I asked Abijit what they are – his tourism course covered flora and fauna in first semester, and he shared the in-depth knowledge that they are “local flowers” and only flower in season – I guess He meant spring.  Later, when we were higher, the flowers were still present but stunted, and when I commented on this, he named them “ground flowers”.  There were deciduous trees and bushes with leaves verging on bud burst.

I had also spotted something I thought might be a type of daphne, putting out flowers before its leaves, and when I asked him if he knew this one he named it “tree flower”  I decided it was time to stop testing his botanical knowledge although later in the day I did comment on the carpet of wild strawberry flowers and asked if the fruit were used.  He said not, it was just left.  Such a shame, although these are tiny, they are most delicious and I find it strange in a climate that does not give a lot to eat that these are not utilised.

Stunning snowy peaks

I admired the new growth on some of the closer pines, buds on the terminal point of the branches.

The road was rather rough, and in places very narrow, very wet.  I joked about the “swimming pool” that we drove through at one point.  The road twisted and turned and zig-zagged its way up and down and encounters with oncoming vehicles were always a little hair raising, especially the large army and police vehicles.

Improbably steep cliffs

As we climbed higher, we passed  herd of yak and the vegetation changed from predominantly deciduous to predominantly pine, and then much more stunted vegetation, including stunted rhododendrons. 

Just more of the same!

We stopped for breakfast about 8:30am at a place that advertised fast food, but it did have clean toilets of the sit on style – both aspects a luxury!  Abijit asked what I wanted to eat, and I countered with a query about what was on offer.  He relayed this question and I picked up “maggi” in the answer.  Thanks, I definitely did not want instant noodles in their chemical broth for breakfast (or lunch or dinner) and he translated back the other alternative – egg and bread. Yes thanks, that would do, and coffee also would be lovely.  The coffee came first – sweet and creamy – I was not asked how I would like it, but as I’d been awake since 5 and the only non-cold drink I’d had was a luke warm herbal tea – I’d screwed up my brew from the previous afternoon when it seemed we’d get no more power – the sweet and creamy coffee was actually quite dreamy!  Made with local milk, I believe – and costing about 3 times as much as a cup of instant coffee elsewhere.

A very strange shaped mountain

 The lady in charge was very sweet – a Tibetan refugee – and she said, via Abijit, that I made her think of her mother who was in America and who she had not seen for 3 years.  Abijit also later shared that she felt really sad about that, so when we stopped for another coffee on our return journey, I asked him to tell her I was sorry I made her feel sad.

A different perspective on those crazily steep peaks

She had indicated my trousers and felt the fabric – fairly thin trekking pants – and indicated cold, so I pulled up the let a little to show my thermal long underwear – it was a morning worthy of my thermal underwear!

It’s rather funny that I pick up, when Abijit is talking about me, that he is telling people I taught refugees in Dharamsala last year – I think this makes me more than just a run-of-the-mill tourist.

Hanging under shelter outside our breakfast spot was a yak’s tail – apparently used for rituals and a very expensive accoutrement – at around 2,500 rupees.

Above the Chopta Valley: staying cosy at 4035m

I had been trying to estimate the height of the mountains around us, we were at about 4000m, and I had guessed the nearer peak at about 5000m and the more distant peaks at 6-7000m.  I was rapt to see a sign confirming the accuracy of my guess of the closer peak.

There were army camps and police camps all along the valley – we are in a restricted area as we are getting close to the boarder and the Indian-China Border Police are very much in evidence. 

There are some small towns and even smaller villages along the way, as well as some abandoned settlements – and at the end of our journey, a tiny herders’ village – used only occasionally – and some of the properties looked in a real state of disrepair.

The Chopta Valley - Yak herders houses

Despite the presence of power lines further up the valley, there is no power.  Houses rely on solar lighting.  I tried to fathom whether there had been power and it no longer worked or whether it is planned.  I think the answer was the latter – although I am not certain.

The views of the high peaks became just amazing, and I could not get enough of them.  One set of peaks, rising improbably steeply from their snowy base, were way too sheer to hold snow and seemed to verge on more than vertical, with one or two appearing to lean.  I would madly snap pictures out the window then sometimes Jesraj would pull up at a particularly good viewpoint.

"Ground Flowers"

He turned off the road we were travelling, pointing out that it continued to that place I’d love to go but may not, Lake Gurudongmar, and pulled up at a particularly stunning view point of the Chopta Valley, and I took a squillion more photos and Abijit asked if I wanted to walk up the road a bit – sure.  The view looked as if it might be even better from further along.  I commented that we should have asked Jesraj to follow us, assuming that we would be progressing further along this road, but no.  We turned round, I assumed that we would travel a little way towards Lake Gurudongmar.  Wrong. 

A laconic look from a yak

"local flowers"

I said “what about a hike”, to which Abijit said “no, no, no” and to which I replied “yes, yes, yes” and pulled out my hand written itinerary from Sudan.  Abijit acquiesced and we walked down a bulldozed roadway, along a bit of a track, then down another bulldozed roadway to the valley.  He commented that the ground looked a bit soft but I said I wanted to go anyway, so we picked our way up the valley towards a grazing herd of yak.  One turned its head to look at us, but seemed rather unconcerned.  Smaller yaks grazing moved away at our approach, seeming quite shy of people. He kept asking me where I wanted to go – I was hoping he knew where it was anticipated we were going.  So we just wandered up to a stone wall enclosed herders hut and sat for some time just contemplating and enjoying the scenery. 

The herder approached and greeted us and Abijit chatted for a while and relayed some information to me and I asked a few questions.  The herder had 50 yak, and would move them up to higher ground – in the area of Lake Gurudongmar at 5000m in June.  There was some confusion about the moving to higher ground, as at first Abijit said that the yaks were moved to higher ground in winter – totally the opposite of my understanding of yak husbandry and I was glad when I asked a few more questions and had this clarified!

"tree flowers"

I asked about the difference between hills and mountains and the answer came that mountains have snow!

One of the larger hills had suffered at least one major landslide, I could only start to imagine the noise that it must have created when so much rock debris was relocated the best part of 1000 metres below.  Other hills had rocky cliffs so extensive that it seemed that part of the mountain had just fallen away.  One had diagonal striations a bit like a tilted layer cake.

More steep valleys

slightly rough roads

Bwama (red snake) falls

Landslide

Swimming pool?

We arrived at Lachung, our destination for the night and eventually found our hotel.  But not until we’d had an unscheduled stop.  Abijit and Jesraj got out and disappeared back up the road for 5 minutes.  They reappeared and I queried – pee stop.  Damn them, I
was hanging on for the hotel.  So when we got to the hotel and everyone was telling me to sit for a bit, I was fairly insistent about my priority!

Two way traffic?

The hotel was part of the same group as the previous nights and I remarked that I hoped they did not have the same sheets.  Abijit said he would ask for clean sheets but this was obviously not effective.  I was shown to my room and I checked the bed – no bed sheet in sight.  It was under the blanked on which it was anticipated I would sleep.  Did I really want to sleep on a sheet, it would be cold.  I assured them that I wanted to sleep between sheets and would they bring me another.  They did, and I said I would fix it, thinking to put the sheet on top of an underblanket – but when I pulled the lower sheet off, it was not clean – there were drips of curry and it felt greasy, so much to the astonishment of the staff, I asked that this be replaced.  It was and the staff member loitered asking if he could help.  Thank you, no.  He’s actually a bit creepy.

Pink Azalea

My light was flickering on and off and I assumed this was a power issue and went out for a walk to the monastery.  I was so glad I did.  Not only was the monastery open, but the caretaker encouraged me to come in, pointed out an ancient and enormous red rhododendron in full flower and told me to enter the main temple. It was beautiful, with a mixture of old and new wall paintings I addition to the main statues of Guru Rinpoche and his consorts, flanked by others I could not identify.

The courtyard of the monastery had, on one side, some landscaped terraces and I wondered if these were designed for people to sit and watch tsetchu.

"Wildflower"

The walk gave me the opportunity to appreciate the location of Lachung – right in the middle of humongous mountains, the closer ones with little snow but the more distant peaks above them showing substantial snow.  Opposite the town is a waterfall.  It starts in a high valley as 3 or more falls entering that valley and then plummets at least 1000m in a series of falls to the valley floor. 

The walk also gave me the chance to see a rather unusual flower.  Initially I thought it was a variety of Arum lily but the leaves were totally wrong and I thought maybe a type of pitcher plant.  Very unusual.

As I walked back to the hotel (also designated as a “resort” on its sign) the light was starting to fade and pink tinged the clouds.  I looked forward to a little quiet time before my dinner but it seemed my light problems were my room only, so I sought some assistance which resulted in the need to replace a light fitting above my bed. 

Peaks surrounding Lachung

I told them to bring something to put on my bed to stand on and they brought a small carpet of dubious cleanliness – I just pulled the blankets over my clean sheets to at least protect those!

Dinner was ok – served by creepy staff member who seemed to think it his job to stand and watch me eat.  Even more creepy.  He then went off to do something and then located himself behind me proceeding to noisily clear his throat, sniff and snort and all sorts of other off-putting sounds.  I asked him for some boiling water in my drink bottle and he brought it full of hot water, but nowhere near boiling.  

White rhododendron

I sent it back, with instructions “like before” – he’d brought me boiling water earlier – they said they would on request – the kettle in my room is one that sits on a base, but there is no base!  I just hope that he does not expect a tip for providing a service that should have been sorted before I arrived!

In the morning light the cleanliness of my bathroom was more evident.  The sink is grimy and appears to have not been cleaned for weeks.  Yuk. 

Lachung Goempa

In the morning I went to find breakfast at the appointed hour and was told it was toast and jam.  I asked if that is what they provided their Indian guests and was told yes, both by the staff member and an Indian guest coming from the dining room – if one can give such an elegant title to the eating space furnished with plastic tables covered with plastic tablecloths and plastic chairs, all of dubious cleanliness.  I agreed to eat toast and jam but not the milk tea on offer and was offered black tea as an alternative with an option of sugar and a choice of light or dark – service!!!  I asked about butter as well and then needed to give instructions about how to make buttered toast with jam – interesting!

evening light at Lachung

While waiting for my breakfast to be brought to my room (I really could not bear the thought of a repeat of the previous evening’s table service) I stepped out the front of the hotel and looked to the skies – it was relatively clear and some seriously big mountains reared their peaks very close and very high.  I was reminded of my son’s grandfather, many years ago when we walked together in the forest, asking my son whether he thought the trees were “2 looks tall or 3 looks tall?”  these mountains are definitely “many looks tall”.  While travelling in the car in this area I run the very serious risk of neck ache from the angle at which I need to peer to see the peaks and constantly turning my head in case I am missing anything!

A conversation with a very Tibetan looking young man who spoke good English started with a discussion of the waterfall I have already commented on.  Yes, he thinks it has a local name but does not know what it is.  He does know, however, that there is a lake somewhere at the top – whether at the top or in what appears to be a hanging valley, he was unsure.  His grandfather had climbed high up many years ago and reported this.  The high areas were also a source of what he referred to as Chinese Caterpillar – Cordiceps.  The local people collect this for sale (quite illegally) and in some of the remote areas, I was told elsewhere, students simply don’t come to school as they are off collecting. 

Morning views at Lachung

My young man was also quite enlightening in respect of the political system and taxes.  It seems that there is not general income tax levied in (at least) North Sikkim and while the local authorities receive some income from tax on the sale of such things as motor vehicles, this is redistributed to the people rather than being used to support town planning and infrastructure development. 

The previous day I had been filled in on the wheeling and dealing regarding the joining of Sikkim to India. It seems to have involved exchange of money; little consultation and the chief minster responsible had no-one attend his funeral.  Not a popular man!

Sikkim’s ruling party has been constant since the introduction of democracy, with any elected members from other factions “deciding” to change sides soon after being elected.  Exchange of money is strongly suspected.

Abijit and Jesraj appeared about 7:45 and I begged a couple more minutes – the scheduled departure time was 8, and Abijit came to say they would eat breakfast first.  Fine, a couple of slices of toast and jam would not take long!

Landslide

I told them I really liked Lachung and maybe the next morning I would be nowhere to be found – I would hide out and live here.  There was a very serious request not to do that as they would get into real trouble if they did not return me beyond the restricted area checkpoints!

I thought I had made it clear that I wanted to spend the whole day at Yumthang Valley, and I asked if we could get lunch there.  No, we would come back to the hotel for lunch.  No, I said, I did not want to do that. Because that then left nothing to do all afternoon!  Can we get lunch at Yumthang.  Yes, maybe….

I said I wanted to go straight to Yumthang (the diversion to the hot springs could wait) so, with a few stops for photos of amazing mountains and wonderful valleys, we did.  I also marked the rhododendron sanctuary as somewhere to stop on the way back. 

Interesting peak!

The scenery on the way was no less wonderful than in the Teesta valley – mountains towering close and high on all sides!

I risked another botanical question to Abijit and showed him the photograph of my flower from the previous afternoon – he identified it as a wildflower.  I was thoroughly unsuccessful in not laughing at him!

Yumthang Valley

Peaks above Yumthang Valley

En route we passed many steep valleys with snow well down the valley and a number of rock slides, including one ginormous one which happened in 2014 and seemed to have taken out half the face of the mountain and produced sounds so loud they could be heard in Lachung, several kilometers down the valley.  On the return journey I decided I wanted to go to the base of one of these snowy tongues in a valley – there was one only a few metres from the road, and Abijit dutifully followed me, as did our driver with great anxiety.  It had started to rain and he was concerned that a fall might happen.  He subsequently pointed out and extremely large boulder that had come down one day when he was travelling – noone hurt, I think, but definitely scary!

We arrived at Yumthang, the approach to the start of the valley is marked by a series of tea shops/fast food places – all makeshift buildings with many snack foods and souvenirs for sale out the front and all with wood burning stoves inside – something incredibly appreciated by those whose attire is less than suitable for the climate.  

Riding a yak!

I greeted one group of 3 Indian ladies wrapped in blankets huddled together trying to get warm in front of the fire.  With my long thermal underwear and down jacket additional to my normal garb, I felt reasonably snug (and a little smug!)

The valley is rather beautiful and we walked down towards the river, I commented on a makeshift tent beside a rock and Abijit said it was where the yak rides were.  I recalled reading about this opportunity so went over to investigate.  A sign informed that a short ride was 100 rupees, and sitting on the yak for a photo was 50, and standing for a photo with the yak was 25.  I was further informed that a longer ride was available for 500. 

Yumthang Valley

I was amused at the pricing for photos with the yak – very enterprising – given the average Indian tourist’s inclination to take a selfie with anything that moves and everything that doesn’t.

The standing yak was all dressed up in his/her finery, which included knitted horn covers complete with fringes and rosettes and a patterned red rug under the riding blanket and saddle. 

I decided that there are some things that one just has to do and committed to a short ride – and was informed that I could pay upon return.  I asked with a smile if that was to make sure I was brought back alive and the chap in charge liked that joke – and repeated it back to me at the end of my ride.

Carpet of mauve-purple flowers

We walked down to the river and I indicated I wanted to walk further, so we followed the alpine meadow – we were at around 3,500m, along the river bank, past the herds of grazing yak and prayer flags being noisily flipped by the stiff breeze. 

Yumthang is know as “the valley of flowers” and while my little “ground flowers” – subsequently identified as a variety of primula were in abundance – sometimes almost providing a mauve carpet – there was not a lot else – apparently I am about a month early.  Given that the snow still lay in small patches in sheltered areas I guess this was not surprising. 

exploring trails

We walked as far as we could without having to seriously pick our way through the forest and then sat for a while enjoying the view and chatting a bit.  Abijit shared that he’d talked with his mother the previous evening and she’d told him to be a good guide, so I said he could tell me what he knew about North Sikkim.  He started by telling me it was 14 degrees of latitude – I expressed great surprise (and double checked the data on my camera – no, it was 27 degrees of latitude where we were.  That sounded much more likely!)

Fungi

In due course we walked back and he asked if I wanted to go the same way – I asked what the alternative was – the road.  Thank you, the same way will be great.  On the way he shared some information that an Indian woman tourist had died the previous year from attitude sickness on the road to Zero Point – a few km and another 1000 or so metres of altitude.  I commented that those with her should have insisted on turning round when she reported feeling unwell and apparently she hadn’t.  The tour operator had received a significant jail term as a result. 

Just another random waterfall

I’d already asked if oxygen was carried when vehicles travelled to high altitudes (that had been my experience in Ladakh) but apparently not.  There is an army base with a hospital at lake Gurudongmar  (about 5,500m), which can provide oxygen.

Devastation caused by landslide

I suspect there is not much sharing of the symptoms and risks of altitude sickness either.  Perhaps something that could be done more as many will not do their research on such matters.

As we walked I relayed the saga of the bedsheets the previous evening and Abijit joked (I hope) that in Sikkim, when it is new year, they change the bedsheet.  I added “whether they need it or not”.  The very small pile outside the “dining room” (where the washing machine is also stored) attested to at least some changing but the said objects were incredibly grey.

Gratuitous rhododendron photo

When we returned to the car, Jesraj asked about going on to Zero Point – given that the clouds had come in, I thought it a bit of a waste.  Another permit was needed and the cost of the permit would be 3000rupees per “luxury vehicle” – the classification of our vehicle.  We went to have coffee and I asked if the others were eating something – it seemed like the choice was Maggi or Maggi – which I declined and went in search of a packet of biscuits.  As far I was concerned this was lunch!

And another ... 

I tried to find out what those who may have been to Zero Point had seen – it was a bit difficult.  One Indian family told me it was lovely, they had played in the snow and build snowmen.  I asked about views of Kangchenjunga and was told that was not the place for it – there were no views.  Others told me it had been misty, but a couple of European ladies I subsequently met said that they’d gone very early and had views.  Never mind. 

We headed down the road to the hot springs, a 10 minute or so walk from the road.  My crew asked if I planned a hot spring bath and I asked if there was a separate area for ladies – Abijit said yes, then consulted, then said no, it was boys and girls in together.  In that case definitely not.  While I had swimsuit and towel with me, I suspected that donning that garment and getting into what turned out to be a tiny pool with half a dozen Indian men in their underwear would make their eyes as big as saucers. 

It also seemed that there was only one change area – I suspect that women generally don’t indulge!

I did ask the chap in charge about the source of the hot spring and he took me behind the building to show me – it emerged directly from the hillside and was directed into a small cemented pool before being siphoned off into the inside pool.  I felt the temperature – very acceptable – and a very minerally – sulphurous smell to it.

Traditional water pipe

Abijit and Jesraj came looking for me – Abijit had said he wanted to drink water and would catch me up – I suspect he got diverted.  I said we could drive back, but again I did not want to go back to the hotel for lunch.  We would stop at scenic places for photographs and little walks. 

Purple rhodendron finally found!

We found one such place not far down the road.   A couple of European ladies were exploring a small area with plentiful primulas, and Jesraj asked if I wanted to stop – I assented.  I looked at the flowers then noticed, on the corner, a relatively clear view to the river valley and went to investigate – not only was there a very clear view but there was a path!   I decided that this needed investigating and Jesraj went to fetch my walking poles as although it was a formed path, it was very uneven. 

Daphne

 Abijit suggested that the path was just one used by herders, I doubted this – it was too well formed.  I received the advice that it did not come out further down at the road and replied that if that were the case we would return the same way.  So we set off.  The path was beautiful, peaceful and in lovely forest but not far from the road.  Jesraj followed with the car down the road, pausing and getting out to call hello – and make sure we were not getting lost or falling off the cliff or something else awful and seriously consequential for him.

Abijit confessed to enjoying the tour with me – I was adventurous – a bit like a man.  I bit my tongue and accepted the comment as it was meant – a compliment. 

We crossed a rather decorative bridge that confirmed my belief that the path had been created for tourists not herders, and a little further on found another bridge of rather more adventurous and risky construction.  Jesraj and taken a shortcut from the closer road to meet us.  I suggested walking on a little (via the alternative bridge) but the path appeared to turn in a direction well away from the road so I suggested that maybe it was time to rejoin the car.  I turned out that a little way down the road, this path emerged – very clearly, so we could have continued.

I requested a few photo stops as we progressed then realized we had exited the rhododendron sanctuary and requested a stop so I could walk back and find some purple rhododendrons I had seen on the way.  I pottered around for 20 minutes or so and then Abijit came to find me (we won’t mention that he probably should have been with me…) and I returned to the road to spot a path on the other side of the road – that needed investigating and provided a lovely walk – but Jesraj was repeatedly calling – afraid that he had lost us both!

There was another conversation about returning to the hotel for lunch (it was after 2 by now) and I said I would rather stay out there than go to the hotel for lunch and have nothing to do for the afternoon.  Jesraj, via Abijit, provided the information that I could walk above the monastery – maybe a couple of km – so I agreed, but said that Abijit would need to accompany me.  I asked if we could drive to the end of the road and then walk, and the response was very confusing.

A late lunch was had and Abijit asked if I wanted him to accompany me – yes, I had no idea where I was going and where the trail started.  There is no trail, just the road.  Well, can we drive ….etc…etc…  No, the driver would not – why not?  I got a bit irritated and suggested they had got me to return under false pretences because they wanted lunch whereas I was very happy in the rhododendron sanctuary.  I wanted to walk on a trail, not a road through a town with traffic. 

leaf burst

Eventually we all piled into the car and headed up the road a couple of km, then there was a conversation that we really did not have a permit to be on that road as it was a road off-limits to foreigners (not sure about walking – could not determine that) but the car would definitely get into trouble.  So we got out and started to walk, I grumbled a bit again to Abijit, so we walked a series of “shortcuts” which cut off the big zig zags of the road - these were quite nice but very short.  We came to a viewpoint which would have been magnificent had there been fewer clouds. There were no more shortcuts, only the road, but at least there were no houses, few vehicles and the surface was reasonable and the roadside vegetation interesting.  We stopped for a bit at one bend then I remarked that the area beyond looked as if it had paths across so we walked there for a bit before heading back via the road (to check out a huge bank of white azaleas), via shortcuts of varying comfort, and finally down the road to reach the hotel as the rain set in seriously for the rest of the evening.

Magnolia

I at least managed to get out into some relatively pleasant environments and had not had to resort to spending half the afternoon in my rather dismal hotel room.

The last day of my tour was a return to Mangan, obtain my permit for Dzongu and then transfer to Dzongu for a few days.

A reasonably straightforward process – or so I thought!

Bob Shrine

The drive back was very pleasant – the reverse of the drive there – and we stopped en route for a quick visit to Bob Shrine – a place where a Hindi god subdued a demon and all the negative energy of the demon went into the rocks to create some very peculiar formations.  The shrine housed a statue of Guru Rinpoche and the Hindi god – once again that lovely blend of religions!

Negative energy of demons created rock formations

Just a gratuitious iris photo

At Chungthank I admired the Sikh temple – from outside.  There is a strong Sikh contingent in the army and some civilian population here.

Chungthang's Sikh Temple

We got to Mangan and received directions to the police station – picking up a policeman on the way, making navigation a lot easier.  The police station is located in upper Mangan – several big zig zags up the hill, and we were directed to the officer who issues permits.

Only there was some problem……