Chimmi Lhakhang


17th March

Saturday morning and a gentle start to the day; a slightly later breakfast than during the week.  There was boring fried rice for breakfast (along with a heap of other things)

I spent the morning doing lesson preparation – verb tenses and subject verb agreement for class 8; essay writing for class 6.  Both at the request of their teachers.

I walked to the shops to get my tenses/comprehension game laminated.  The relevant shop was closed, the owner had gone to Thimphu for a few days.  I purchased a few bits and pieces including incense and the “butter” for butter lamps for the following day’s excursion

Taking shortcuts towards Chimmi Lhakhang
Leki sent a message to say she cannot take us to Chimmi Lakhang, as was planned, as she is going to Thimphu. Joan has already done a walk to the nunnery and I decided to go to Chimmi Lakhang anyway, I want to buy a copy of Alex’s book Dorji, which I had been told was available from a bookshop on the way.

I was enchanted by the number of greetings en route – older boys  not only wishing me good afternoon, with a little bow, but there was also removal of a cap!  A young boy with a similar greeting introduced me to his father who looked inordinately proud of the boy having an English conversation with his teacher.
The road below the hotel
- a good section

I took a series of shortcuts down narrow steps and laneways and through terraced fields – mostly navigating by “feel” but all the shortcuts seemed to be heading in the right direction.


I was besieged by class pp students eager to chat – in their limited way “this is madam?” inquired one little girl.

On the final approach to the Lhakhang, I met Trish who had been picnicking with her class 5 students, and they were all very excited – to see me and about their day with her.

I turned the prayer wheels and visited the Lhakhang – which had an enormous number of tourists visiting and a few locals.  It is a “fertility temple”, the temple of the Divine Madman (I cannot but help thinking of The Life of Brian “he’s  not the Messiah, he’s just a naughty boy  in relations to this eccentric character in Bhutan’s history)

The temple is in rather a lovely spot, perched on a small hill just above paddy fields not far from the river.  There is a small village at the base of the hill which appears to exist for the purpose of running souvenier/craft shops to sell goods to tourists, but I am sure there must also be some farmers.

I eventually find the shop that I had been told had “Dorji” and was rather horrified by the price 1350Nu.  I know that these had cost Alex 50Nu per copy to print in early 2016, so someone was making a real killing.  Given this knowledge and the purpose of the purchase – first prize in the poster competition, I asked for a discount – explaining the purpose.  I received a small discount.

I had ordered momo as I was on my way to the Lhakhang and they were just about ready when I returned almost 2 hours later!

As I left the momo restaurant, I encountered one of Trish’s students who had got separated from the group.  I had some complicated conversations with her and attempted several times to call Trish, to no avail, but all was sorted in the end and the child decided to go to an “auntie” who had a vegetable stall.  I messaged Trish with this information.

Later, over a small glass of wine I worked with Joan on our presentation for world water day; she had prepared a conversation script for us that needed a bit of work – sometimes I’d get a bit frustrated by her 1st world perspective on developing world situations.  I explained how to flush the staff toilets – by tipping water using the container provided.  I also explained that trying to get across the message of not wasting water when showering might be irrelevant – many will not shower, they will mandi bathe!  I also suggested that starting with statistics might go over the heads of all but part of class 8;  pictures to illustrate the concept (not even pi charts) might be better.

I added that, in respect of keeping water clean, the basic message of moving well away from rivers for “bush toilet” stops should be included.  She questioned whether this might be condoning the practice.  In a country where there are virtually no public toilets on the east – west road, there is often little other choice.  She asked about toilets in service stations – another first world perspective.



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