Another lunch date in Thimphu

Valley mists from Dochu La

Thursday 30^th March

I got up with my alarm to find the hotel in cloud, so luxuriated in a hot shower.

Sunrise showed a faint glimpse beyond the cloud and then tinged the edges of the cloud with gold as the cloud and mist around the hotel cleared.  I think I am in the best room in the house for morning views – one window faces the sunrise and the other faces where other mountains would be beyond the cloud.

While a couple of the window panes are double glazed, one is not and from time to time I opened the window for a quick photo rather than go out on the balcony in front of my other window..  The sun eventually peeked above the clouds but still no view of the distant high peaks!

Sunrise above the clouds from Dochu La

Breakfast was as ordered, but they were covering their backs:  plain fried rice served with ezy on the side!  My Indian fellow guests came in as I was eating and were horribly rude to the waitress who was offering them what they were loudly demanding but they were claiming that she was not speaking English and should get the manager.

In due course, I had packed my bags and as the area was still in intermittent mist and views of the higher peaks seemed unlikely, I settled my bill and asked about the best time to go down for a bus ride or share taxi ride.  2 of the staff came to the bottom of the drive with me, and their first attempt to flag down a passing taxi was unsuccessful – it was already full, but the next vehicle was a private one, with a monk driving, and he responded to their signals and request for a lift for me.  His quiet chanting of mantras or prayers as we navigated the pass down to the immigration checkpoint surely aided our safe journey.

The rising sun paints the edge of the clouds gold

With no shared language I was able to request him to drop me in Norzin Lam, the main road, and gave him 100Nu for petrol – about what the girls had told me a share taxi for a local person should be.  He offered a perfunctory refusal before accepting it. 

I walked the short distance to the Khamsum Inn to drop my bags – there was much confusion about whether I was checking in or not – I did not expect my room to be ready – I knew that Joan did not intend checking out until midday!  I did manage to drop my bags and get further directions to Hong Kong market where I may (or not) be able to get my phone screen replaced.  The verdict, after trying several places specializing in phone repairs was that there was no screen for my phone to be had.  At least it still works. 

 

Thimphu from the Communications Tower at Sangaygang

I decided that spending the next couple of hours browsing the craft stalls on Norzin Lam would be dangerous for my suitcase, and feeling a bit ordinary with my cold, opted for a couple of hours sipping honey-lemon-ginger in comfort, using the wifi at Ambient café.  Having exhausted my 2 hours of free wifi, and still not feeling much better, I checked a couple of nearby pharmacies for something that might dry up my seriously runny nose and eyes.  I purchased some cold tablets that seem to have the pseudoephrine substitute that I know does not work particularly well for me, but the option was better than nothing. 

Thimphu from the Communications Tower at Sangaygang

I wandered into one handicraft shop advertising a clearance sale and noted that the coloured silk scarves, similar to those for sale on Dochu La, were twice the price, so other than admiring the colours, I did not stay long. 

I continued down to my rendez-vous point with Zangmo – Clocktower square - and was just looking around when her familiar voice called to me from behind – they had just arrived and parked.  It was lovely to see her again, although it had only been 3 weeks since our last lunch date.

Best Friends!  With Zangmo at Sangaygang

With jokes and exchange of news, we proceeded to the same restaurant as before – with silly comments about caviar and smoked salmon, and Zangmo ordered momo, rice, ema datse, mushroom datse and chicken.  I do rather like mushroom datse.  And an ice cream for Tenzin, which he ate first.  A course of action of which  I am sure any young boy would approve.

Zangmo extricated from her bag a gift for me – a gorgeous taego piece that will make a lovely jacket.  With its black background and coloured pattern, it will go well with many things.  I shall enjoy making and wearing that in due course.

Zangmo and Tenzin

We lingered over lunch and I rejected Zangmo’s suggestion that maybe I needed to return to my hotel to rest – despite my cold, my time with her is too precious to cut short.  I did suggest that I needed to return and pick up a jacket though, if we were headed for outside activities, and did eventually manage to navigate her husband through Thimphu’s one way streets to the hotel. 

My bags had already been taken to my room, so I needed to sprint up 3 flights of steps to get my jacket – some degree of urgency required as the road workers were not terribly happy about our parking!  Despite my cold, I was pleased to notice that I did not have the hint of breathlessness that this activity had created almost a month previously.  The daily hike up to the school and up and down between classrooms had obviously improved my fitness.

We drove up to the telecom tower at Sangaygang for some panoramic views of Thimphu – I had been there before, but enjoyed the revisit – the views through the fluttering prayer flags are just lovely – but it is obvious from there just how much Thimphu is expanding. 

I asked if Tenzin wanted to see the Takin on the way down – we passed the Takin reserve (zoo) but it seems that he didn’t and back outside the hotel I said a final farewell to Zangmo – for the time.  I am so lucky to have met and formed such a close friendship with this lovely lady!