An adventure I did not need to have…..

11^th April 2018

Being detained in a Sikkim police station was definitely not on my to-do list….

First there were some problems with issuing my permit for Dzongu because my inner line permit was only for the region around Gangtok and my restricted area permit expired today.  I said that I’d been told that the permit could be extended in Gangtok, but the officer said not so.  I asked my guide to call his boss…

The bridge to Dzongu

There was much discussion, of which I understood little, and then I was asked how long I wanted the permit for – 7 nights 8 days please.  No, the longest I could have was 4 nights 5 days.  Interesting since I had booked the homestay for 5 nights after conversation with my host – who would surely know the rules.  Well, that can be negotiated later.

There were some questions about my “travelling companion” the German called Herman.  Well, apparently we had met in Gangtok and agreed to travel together but then he had not turned up. 

Then there were questions about my guide for Dzongu, as foreigners were not allowed without a guide; the homestay is providing the guide, said I.

A lovely river valley separates Dzongu

Ok, my permit could be issued, did I have a photocopy of my inner line permit – no – we must go and get one.  And I needed not only the name and address of the homestay but the name and phone number of the host.  That I could not provide without internet access.  Abijit could not get internet on his phone but finally we found free wifi at the police station and he was able to assist me in getting on to that – it needed a pin number sent to a phone.

The paperwork is finally issued

I was able to get onto the internet and the AIRBNB app and find his name and phone number.  That would help the process.  There were a series of messages from him asking about my local contact number and my papers to make my permit.  Abijit also called him and found that he was in the market place and would meet me.  All good.

The issuing of the paperwork seemed to be progressing well;  I had provided photocopies of passport, inner line permit, visa, 2 photos and the fee for the form.  Then there was a problem.

A policewoman had called to say there was a problem with issuing my permit and was coming.  No details.

Massive landslide visible from the homestay

She and others arrived; they had information (I think) that I was a Thai national travelling on an Australian passport and had been making satellite phone calls.  I was surprised and said it was not I.  I was asked to provide my passport, which was examined closely, and photographed, I think, and was asked where I had been before Bhutan – I confessed to Bangkok. 

Homestay views towards the North

I was further quizzed about the satellite phone matter and was asked to adjourn to another office by a lady.  She was very pleasant, as were others in the office, and asked me to sit down and not worry (I’m being temporarily – I hope – detained by the police, but don’t worry…)  Abijit was also invited/told to sit – I asked him about Jesraj, was I really wanted my waterbottle from the car, but the lady picked up my question and sent for some water – boiled water, she told me, not mineral water.  So I shared my wholehearted approval of that.  As she was clearly not in police uniform, I asked if she was a police lady, and she confirmed she was a police officer, so I politely inquired her rank – inspector.  At least I was being detained by someone of high rank!  

They had received intelligence that I had made a satellite phone call.  No, never. 

Sangthup at the fire at Lingthem homestay

Someone came in to say that one of my bags in the car was locked, could they have the key – I said it needed the combination unlocked so my bags were brought to the office – and a very superficial search of my suitcase ensued, although my toilet bag was gone through with a fine tooth comb.    I offered my backpack but it was either not considered necessary to search that… or it had already been searched. 

Another woman in plain clothes came in – apparently senior and seemingly related to the “intelligence” division – and further conversations ensued. 

Apparently there was some mistake – yes, I knew that – and perhaps the people with the cell phone were travelling with an Austrian, not an Australian.  I could go, but perhaps first I would like to drink my cup of tea -  I had thought the offer of black tea with sugar to be quite nice – I was starting to feel in need of something sweet!

They thanked me for being so cooperative – was there any point in being anything else?  I advised that I was more than happy to cooperate with them.  They were doing their duty and I understood the importance of that.  The lady inspector shook my hand and said it had been nice to meet me, I reciprocated the comment and added that it would have been better under other circumstances -  to which another very senior police officer (judging from the respectful way she was saluted and verbally greeted)

View from homestay

We walked out of the police station and were met by Sangthrup – my homestay host for the next few nights.  He had no idea of what had been going on, although was aware that something was amis, so I filled him in and we headed back down to the market area so he could finish his shopping, after I had farewelled driver and guide.

I waited in the car and when he got back but his wife was still busy, we talked about easy options for changing my booking with him which had been done through AIRBNB.  He tried to give me a hotspot, but things were interrupted by a phone call.

The homestay

There were more problems and they would meet us at the junction.  It seemed to me that he was taking his time for meeting police, but what would I know?  It turned out that we were meeting my driver and guide.  They had been called from Gangtok and had to report to the main police station there.  At the start, I thought that Abijit was saying that I also had to go, but no, just the 2 of them, as “intelligence” was saying that I had made the offending call. 

I am not totally sure why they were being called to the police station and I was being allowed to go, but I hope they were not going to get into trouble. 

Sunset colours: a taste of things to come

I was really quite curious as to the nature of the intelligence – surely if there was knowledge that a call had been made, there would be more details that would enable more accurate pinpointing. 

I realized I was feeling quite exhausted and had the beginning of a headache, information I shared with Dechen, Samdrup’s wife;  she told me not to worry, that it was probably just a formality for my tour crew. 

It was quite a relief to get to Sangthrup’s place – and hopefully the end of the dramas for the day!