Bangkok: Not the Cloth Museum

28^th February 2018

Wat Benchamabophi

I woke very early, which was hardly surprising given the 4-hour time difference between home and here. I started my day with spending some early time looking at options for exploring and made a list.  When I went down for breakfast, the young lady at reception provided me with a map, made a copy of my list and  “did her homework” while I ate. She came through with another, more detailed map and suggestions that I could not do everything on my list in one day.  Reconciling the maps with information from Lonely Planet and her suggestions re location for the Museum of Siam was just not happening, so I left that thought for later.

Buddha statues inside Wat Benchamabophit

I decided on Wat Benchamabophit and the royal cloth museum and went down to negotiate a ride to the station.  That would be in 45 min, so I asked about the walk. I was told 20 minutes, but was seriously discouraged due to the heat.  When I insisted, I was given another map and directions; promising to wear my sunhat and stay safe I set off through the back lanes.  It was a lovely way to start my exploration, with friendly smiles and greetings in plentiful supply.

I misjudged a turn and needed to retrace my steps and was asked by a gentleman sitting at a table outside a tiny shop where I was going.  I told him the SkyTrain station and he consulted a little with his older companion and with characteristic Thai generosity the older man handed over the motorbike key for me to be taken to the station. I refused this kind but scary offer, so the younger man pointed to the lane I'd just come down, counted to 3 while pointing along the road and using his fingers to reinforce 3.  

Inside Wat Benchamabophit

So I headed off again, looking for the third lane.  Clearly I could not count to 3, or I could not distinguish a proper lane from a more casual access, and needed to retrace my steps yet again. On my 3rd attempt, a lady loitering at the end, chatting to an older lady behind a substantial metal fence, beckoned me and walked with me across the railway lines to the station.  The railway station staff was on the ball with helpfulness before I even realised I needed it and I soon had my token and was directed to the correct platform.

The SkyTrain really is a wonderful service, connecting points so much faster than road travel. 

I needed a bit of direction once I left the station, but again, assistance was forthcoming before I'd even thought about it.  

So I headed off on foot. After all, I figured It was only 3 blocks to Wat Benchamabophit; it just turned out to be a long 2.5 km 3 blocks.  My map had no scale

Exterior of Wat Benchamabophit

First there was the minor challenge of crossing the road; I started to cross in one direction then changed my mind and decided I needed to go somewhere else, then realised there were no pedestrian lights on a seriously busy intersection, so back where I came from – much to the very visible amusement of a few motorcyclists stopped at the lights.

As I walked the 3^rd block I became a little concerned at the squillion tour buses lining the road and fully expected my experience of Wat Benchamabophit to rival that of Wat Phra Kaow a couple of years previously, with wall to wall tourists taking inappropriate selfies without being mindful of other people’s eyes as they wave around these narcissistic accessories.  Fortunately it didn’t.

Security on the sidewalk!

I was fascinated to see a number of men and women in traditional dress of the type worn on special occasions, and did ask, but the lady I spoke to had inadequate English to do other than agree that a special occasion was being celebrated.

The Wat is, of course, beautiful.  It is the Wat that is pictured on the back of the 5 baht coin and is constructed of Italian marble.  The courtyard walkways are lined with Buddha statues in a whole range of positions and gestures and the main temple has a beautiful golden Buddha statue and alter area.

The "gate" opposite the entrance to Dusit Palace Park

As I sat on the cool temple floor in front of a fan (a good thing to do considering the 38^oC outside), contemplating the Buddha with silent prayers for my friends in less than full health,  I observed a few other visitors, some of whom were performing full body prostrations.  All good.  What then surprised me was these people joining others who were sitting with their backs to the Buddha to have their photos taken – an interesting combination of respectful and disrespectful behaviours!

With the ladies who finally explained what was happening

I left the Wat, after being grossly overcharged for a drinking coconut, for my walk to Royal Cloth Museum.

Not far along the road, I encountered a large but temporary security point and was directed to enter it.  I was instructed to pause for a photo of me and my ID, then was directed to an officer (an immigration officer) for him to record my ID.  My passport was in my money belt, rather inaccessible under my dress, but my drivers’ license seemed to suffice.  To be sure to be sure, I was directed to a second officer to also record my ID again, but this time there was some difficulty with my drivers’ license as ID and could I remember my passport number?  I advised negative on this point and identified that I did have my passport and pointed out its location.  

Demonstrating traditional methods of food preparation

The recording officer suggested I sit down and reach down my front to retrieve it, looking away and shielding his eyes.  I just laughed; it was not going to happen, I simply could not reach it that way.  The gentleman who had given me directions was almost hysterical, by this stage.  I signalled that I needed to lift my skirt to reach it, and needed to move behind him and request the assistance of a female officer – just to shield me a little from view.  My passport duly retrieved and recorded, I was allowed to proceed.

I was still absolutely unsure why there was security.  Traffic flow was blocked in one direction.  There were more people in traditional dress. I was told I should go into the Palace grounds and a very worthwhile diversion this was.  Opposite the entrance to the Palace grounds was a most attractive arch over the road, with assorted pictures of royal ladies.

Posing artistically for a photo 

The massive approach to the palace had the most colourful array of flowers down its centre, surrounding a row of fountains and with the statue of King Rama V on horseback dominating the foreground.  All was attended by formally attired guards.  There were loads of people, many in the traditional dress, and along the sides were many tents and pavilions, amongst them places where one could hire the traditional costume.  It did actually seem to be a Thai event, mainly for Thais and in due course one lady explained that it was the initiative of the new king, to help people move on from mourning the old king and to appreciate their heritage, their traditional ways and compare how things were done in the past.

Young Thai women, in particular, were posing artistically for photos everywhere – and there was plenty of gorgeous backdrop to complement their beautiful attire, with the floral displays everywhere.

Displays of traditional textiles and garment construction

The pavilions housed people preparing food and demonstrating crafts in the traditional manner.   I observed some of the food preparation and was directed to where I could sample it for 50 baht.  Bite sized fried morsels were accompanied by a dipping sauce with chopped onion and cucumber in a vinegar mix – a bit difficult to eat together with a toothpick, but it was tasty.

Every bus needs a draped pavilion!

I paused to watch one artisan working on Khram – a silver wire inlay method whereby the finest of silver wire is hammered, with the aid of a fine pointed tool to position and hold the wire, into intricate patterns on a metal pot.  Painstaking, beautiful work. 

I was fascinated to observe a bus being maneuvered into a tent/pavilion and even more intrigued, as I walked past it to observe 3 uniformed officers, seated beside the bus performing what I assumed was essential maintenance. They spotted me photographing them through the draped side entrance and came out for a friendly chat and welcome to Thailand.

Towards the palace there was an area of several pavilions demonstrating different types of weaving.  There was one piece of weaving, in silk, intricately patterned, that was particularly beautiful, and my fingers were itching to feel it and turn it over to examine the back.  

Draped with lucky wishes - I think

However, I heeded the sign telling me not to touch and asked the gentleman who was weaving if he could show me the back.  He had no English, but went to get someone else, and between them they held out this lovely cloth for me to examine and admire.  One of the recent comers explained that it was a traditional pattern, but not in the traditional colours, and sent the weaver to get the originals, which were then draped on me in the manner of the traditional ceremonial scarves.  Feeling privileged at this attention, I passed over my camera for some pictures, which were gladly taken.  I tried to ask how much a piece like this would sell for, and having got past the “this one is not for sale”, it was suggested maybe 10,000Baht.  I suspect that it might be more.  I was told that I could buy some in the commercial area – another section of the palace grounds with a semicircle of shops around a central lawn, and a lovely big area with choice of foods - of course!

With 2 little beauties in their traditional costumes

I had already explored this other area and found one large stall selling cloth, along with a few shops with more expensive pieces.  The first large stall made me feel a little like a kid in a lolly shop – but I resisted. My suitcase is already full!

Working on Khram

It was interesting to note on the large signs about the weaving exhibits, that there were some techniques that had been on the verge of dying out before the Queen brought those who still had expertise together to teach young apprentices the skills.  

It really is good to see the traditional arts being maintained and encouraged and their uses modified a little to cater to an expanding market.  I was interested to see a small number of young women with above the knee versions of the traditional skirts – modifying traditional textiles to fashion items – an idea I would very much like to share in Bhutan.

While looking at the food stalls, I allowed one vendor to tempt me with a plate of cakes.  I found somewhere shaded to sit and eat these sticky morsels and was about to dive into my bag for a tissue to wipe my fingers when a kind Thai lady came over with her packet of wet wipes.  Once again, a local person anticipating my every need. 

Traditional handwork
from one of the minorities

The overall impression of this event was a massive display of colour and people enjoying themselves.  A small army of volunteers were identifiable by their yellow scarves; another small army of cleaners pounced with their brooms and long handled dustpans on any piece of rubbish and replaced full large garbage bags at regular intervals.  Medical/first aid crews were everywhere and I observed them attending to one lady, apparently overcome by the heat, and another being transported on a golf-cart like vehicle serving for ambulance duties.

Intricate weaving

It was good to see regular points where bottled water was for sale, but also free drinking water dispensed from large coolers – regularly replenished from the very large bottles of filtered water.  In such a debilitatingly hot climate it was a very organisationally responsible initiative.

At one point I was attracted to some delightful music, musicians with traditional instruments in costumes to match:  just lovely.

The palace

Having been told that the Royal Cloth Museum was closed, and starting to feel a bit fatigued, I decided to return to the train station, and showed some interest in a tuk-tuk, but told him his 200Baht to go the distance was ridiculously high, I would walk.  He came down, but I continued with my insistence I would rather walk, but did make him an offer when invited to do so.  He upped it a bit and I agreed. 

For those who have never ridden a tuk-tuk, it is an interesting experience.  It certainly is not the epitome of comfort or safety. One feels very up close and personal with the surrounding traffic, and rather vulnerable with little to separate one from neighbouring vehicles.  The drivers weave in and out among the traffic with the dexterity of motorbike riders, an activity that can be pretty scary for the passengers.  The prospect of one’s tuk-tuk merging into a small space in competition with a large van also merging into the same space is just a little heart stopping.

Traditional music

I did eventually arrive in one piece, and was deposited conveniently close to the station steps and a banana pancake vendor at the base.  Deciding that this was an opportune time for one of my favourite Thai snacks, I waited my turn.

Banana pancake in hand, I headed up the station steps to find myself on the wrong train line, and followed some vague directions to the airport line.  Apparently my directions were insufficiently clear, I found myself rather misplaced in an adjacent building.  A kind young man with little English elected to direct me personally toward my destination, and accompanied me through a carpark, up and down stairways and across overpasses to the point where signs to the airport line were evident.  Once again that wonderful Thai kindness and generosity of spirit was in play.

A stunning floral foreground

From the Lat Krabang railway station I chose to walk back to the hotel, enjoying observing everyone going about their daily business, and responding to friendly greetings.  Aerobics in the court yard of the local Wat necessitated a stop for a photograph, and I continued through the maze of building to find an exit on another road.

Back at the hotel, I finally met my BCF reading colleague, Aileen, and we spent an hour or two chatting in my room before we both decided that sleep was desirable.

Aerobics at Wat Lat Krabang